Culantro

From its Italian influence Sofrito is salty and silky with olive oil, olives and capers.  The typical Latin components include cubanelle peppers (similar to banana peppers…light green Anaheim chilies are a good substitute), aji dulces (small sweet chilies without a kick), pungent oregano with a thick African-violet-like leaf, culantro (recao) and mild cilantro.  The herb culantro is known as recao in Puerto Rico and it has a strong (bitter) cilantro flavor but it is this herb that sets homemade sofrito apart from commercial brands.  Recao or Culantro grows wild in Puerto Rico and most of Latin America.  It’s also been found in Florida, Georgia, Hawaii and Southeast Asia.  If you cannot find culantro in your local Latin market it can be found in Asian markets as ngo gai (Vietnamese).  If you enjoy gardening and want to grow your own cubanelle peppers, culantro and aji dulces chilies, check out the seeds for sale at  http://dollarman.com/store.

Aji Dulce Chile

Make a large batch of this condiment when your chilies and peppers are prime.  This recipe may be frozen in ice-cube trays then transfer the cubes to a zip-lock bag for longer freezer storage.  Use 2-3 cubes to spice up a picadillo, arroz con gandules, asopao or small pernil.   You may heighten the color and subtle flavors of meat and rice dishes with this variation:  thaw 3 sofrito cubes in a bowl then saute in 2 Tbsp achiote oil (annato seeds in olive oil)  for a couple minutes, add 2 Tbsp tomato paste blended with 1/4 cup water and bring to a lively simmer for a few minutes.

Ingredients:

• 1 large onion, quartered
• 1 large green cubanelle pepper (or Anaheim chili), seeded and quartered
• 1 red bell pepper, seeded and quartered (or 1 small jar of roasted red peppers)
• 1 head of garlic, cloves separated and skinned (or 1 Tbsp minced garlic)
• 1 bunch of cilantro leaves
• 6 culantro leaves
• 12 aji dulces chilies (or 2-3 habanero chiles for a spicy-hot option)
• 8-10 Spanish olives, pitted (or stuffed green olives)
• 1 Tbsp capers
• 1 Tbsp crushed oregano (3 Tbsp of fresh oregano leaves)
• 2 tsp sea salt
• 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup olive oil

Cubanelle Peppers

Method:

1. In a large food processor pulse all ingredients until fairly minced.
2. Whirl minced ingredients until nearly pureed.  Add water or juice from a jar of  roasted red peppers to facilitate pureeing.
3. Makes about 3-1/2 cups.  Pour into sterilized jars, cover and let cool to room temperature.  Refrigerate.
4. Alternately, pour pureed ingredients into clean ice-cube trays and freeze several hours.  Transfer cubes to a zip-lock bag.

Heirloom doesn’t refer to non-genetically engineered zucchini seeds but rather the recipe itself.  This pickling recipe is probably from the early 1900s though relishes and chutneys have been around a few centuries to say the least.  The first step in pickling vegetables is to remove as much water as possible from the vegetables so as not to dilute the acid and salt combo which actually preserves the veggies.   The first 8-12 hours is for sweating the veggies.  Plan on a day and a half to make a large batch of relish, about 12 cups or 6 pints.   You’ll also need a boiling-water-bath for sterilizing jars and processing the filled jars.

While living in Colorado during the 70s, my good friend, Arlene, and I made batches of zucchini relish every summer.  We used this relish just like pickle relish in potato salad, devilled eggs, on hot dogs and hamburgers, and in tuna pasta salad to list a few.  It has the sweet and sour taste of bread and butter pickles with a little kick from the chilies.  Don’t forget to include a jar of zucchini relish in a gift basket of your homemade preserves.  Friends and family will love it.

Step 1 – preparing vegetables:

• 10 cups of ground zucchini
• 5 cups of ground onion  
• 1 large green bell pepper
• 1 large red bell pepper
• 2-3 jalapeno chilies
• 5 Tbsp sea salt (Kosher or canning salt)

1. Grind all vegetables with large die.  Sprinkle salt over and mix.  Cover and let stand overnight in refrigerator. 
2. Transfer ground veggies to a large colander.   Rinse under cold water for 5 minutes and thoroughly drain until the colander no longer drips.
3. Place in a heavy bottomed stock pot or large enamel Dutch oven.

Step 2 – adding syrup and seasoning:

• 2-1/2 cups cider vinegar
• 3-1/2 cups granulated sugar
• 1 Tbsp dry mustard (or 2 Tbsp yellow mustard seeds)
• 2 tsp celery seed
• 1/2 tsp ground black pepper
• 1 tsp ground nutmeg
• 1 tsp ground allspice

1. Add all syrup and seasoning ingredients to the prepared vegetables.  Stir well.
2. Cook over medium high heat to a boil, stirring ocassionally.  Lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes until zucchini is translucent and syrup has thickened. Stir more often taking care not to scorch the bottom.
3. Pack sterilized jars to 1/2-inch from top of jar.  Clean rim of jar, place lid on rim and seal with ring.
4. Process jars in boiling-water-bath for 10 minutes.  Jars should be under 1 inch of boiling water.
5. Remove jars from boiling water.  Set in a draft free area until cool.  Refrigerate any jars not sealed.  Store sealed jars in a dark, cool pantry.  Refrigerate once opened.

“From vine to brine in less than 12 hours” is the rule of thumb for home pickling.  This brine is so simple to make and can be made in large volumes so you can pickle as you pick those young tender beans, baby cukes and okra.   Add a slice of garlic, a tiny dried chile, and dill weed to the jar for real zing. 

According to the Pickle History Timeline ( http://www.nyfoodmuseum.org/_ptime.htm) pickling is one of the oldest food preservation methods known to man.   In the fifteenth century A.D.: ”Before Amerigo Vespucci set out to explore the New World, he was a pickle peddler in Seville, Spain. Since food spoilage and the lack of healthy meals were such concerns on long voyages, he loaded up barrels of pickled vegetables onto explorer ships. Hundreds of sailors were spared the ravages of scurvy because of Vespucci’s understanding of the nutritional benefits of pickles.”  It’s interesting to note that the cucumber came from India in 2030 B.C. and dill weed was introduced to Western Europe from Sumatra in 900 A.D.  Nearly 50% of all cucumbers grown in the United States are pickled.  And while a pickle is a cucumber, any vegetable or fruit can be pickled.   Generally pickles are a good source of Vitamin C, Vitamin A, Calcium and Iron.

Pickled green beans are super in Bloody Mary’s and Salad Niçoise.  Add them to a relish tray with other pickles and olives or toss them in a salad with purple potatoes and boiled eggs.  You’ll find a lot ways to utilize pickles from your garden.  They also make a terrific gift.  Nothing is more appreciated than a basket of homemade preserves, condiments and pickles.

This recipe works for cucumbers and okra too.  Add yellow mustard seeds instead of chile peppers.  You can substitute dill seeds if fresh dill weed is not available.  Just double or triple the amount of vinegar, water and salt to make a big batch of brine ready to use.

Ingredients for 3 pints:

• 2-1/2 pounds freshly picked green beans (Haricot Verts recommended), washed and vine-end trimmed
• 2 cups distilled white vinegar
• 2 cups water
• 1/4 cup canning salt (Kosher salt or sea salt)
• 3 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced in half
• 1 bunch dill weed divided into 3
• 3 tiny red chile peppers or 1/4 tsp of red pepper flakes in each jar

Method:

1. Sterilize 3 pint jars with rings and lids.  Keep warm.  Trim green beans to 1/2 inch shorter than the jar.
2. Drop a chile and a garlic into each jar.  Arrange beans in jar with cut ends toward the top, packing beans in fairly tight so they won’t float up to the lid.
3. Tuck dill weed into the center of the beans.
4. In a stainless steel pot, combine vinegar, water and salt.  Bring to a boil and stir until salt is dissolved
5. Pour boiling brine over beans up to 1/4-inch from top of jar.  Wipe the lip of the jar and seal with lid and ring.
6. Let rest in a draft-free area.  Beans will ferment in the refrigerator in about 2 weeks. 
7. For longer storage, place hot jars into a boiling water bath with 1 inch of water covering the tops.  Simmer for 10 minutes.  Remove to a draft-free area and once cooled check that lids have properly sealed.  If the lids do not spring back when pressed they are sealed.  Refrigerate any jars that have not sealed.
8. Store sealed jars in cool, dark pantry for 1 year or longer.

Similar to a fresh Mexican salsa or cooked salsa picante, chutneys can be fresh or cooked.  North Americans and Europeans typically cook chutneys with vinegar, sugar and salt to preserve them, and the final product more closely resembles a sweet pickle relish.   

The following recipe is adapted from a West Indian chutney and is well suited for wind-fallen green fruit such as apples and peaches as well as a variety of unripened tropical fruit including green mango and papaya.  If you’re really opposed to rhubarb use green or ripe tomatoes.  Instead of apples use pears or peaches.  Chutneys are best served with meat, fish, poultry and cheese.  

Try this quick and delicious appetizer for your next dinner party:  rounds of toasted baguette topped with ricotta, prosciutto, arugula and homemade Rhubarb-Apple Chutney.   Homemade chutneys and other preserves make delightful gifts for house-warmings, foodie occasions, Christmas and auction baskets.

Ingredients:  makes 4 pints

• 6 apples, peeled, cored and diced 1/2-inch (6 cups total)
• 2 cups rhubarb, washed, trimmed, diced 1/2-inch
• 2 cups onion, chopped fine
• 1 cup raisins (optional) or dried fruit of choice
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 6 hot red chilies, seeded and minced (3 chilies for milder heat)
• 4 sweet bell peppers (2 red, 2 green), seeded and diced 1/2-inch
• 1 Tbsp tamarind paste in 1/4 cup water (optional)
• 1/4 cup fresh ginger, minced
• 1/2 tsp allspice
• 1 Tbsp sea salt
• 2 cups white vinegar
• 2-1/2 cups sugar

Method:

1. Add all ingredients (except sugar) to a heavy bottomed, stainless steel or porcelain stockpot. 
2. Bring to a boil then lower heat, cover and simmer for 30 minutes.
3. Uncover, add sugar and continue to simmer for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally until thickened.
4. Continue to stir and simmer until thicken to taste.
5. Fill hot-sterilized jars to within 1/2-inch of rim. 
6. Cap and immerse in boiling water bath for 10 minutes.
7. Remove jars to a towel to cool.  Store in cool, dry pantry for 6-9 months.  Refrigerate once opened.

This recipe is simply made in a crock pot with just sugar, walnuts, salt, cinnamon and a squeeze of lemon juice.  The preserve is smooth with little crunchy fig seeds and the walnuts add a bit more texture  and nutty flavor.   Peeling the fresh figs will eliminate having to puree the cooked figs.   However, the skins add color and richness to the butter and a handheld puree wand works great for this chore.  A food mill or food processor will work just as well. 

This butter is delightful on a biscuit or toast and great as a cake filling.  An added bonus of figs is their diuretic and laxative qualities…much like prunes.  Fresh figs are in season so get to cookin’ and fill your pantry with fig goodies.  Fig and Walnut Butter will make a lovely holiday gift for any foodie on your list. 

Ingredients:

• 2 pounds of fresh black or white figs, chopped, about 8 cups
• 2 cups of brown sugar, packed
• 1 Tbsp lemon juice
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1 cup walnuts, chopped

Method:

1. Place all ingredients except walnuts in a covered crock pot.  Stir to combine.  Set temperature to high and cook until bubbly.
2. Puree cooked figs in a food processor or use a hand-held puree wand.
3. Return figs to crock pot, add walnuts and set temperature to low.  Cook uncovered until buttery smooth and thick enough to mound up on a spoon.
4. Sterilize glass jars, fill to 1/4 inch from rim with hot butter.  Seal and place in boiling water bath for 10 minutes.  Remove and cool to room temperature.
5. Refrigerate once opened.